The Mercato dei Fiori is located on Via Trionfale, at the end of Via Giordano Bruno. Quite a coincidence since the dark, brooding statue in Campo de Fiori – known also as the “field of flowers” – is of…. Giordano Bruno. He was burned at the stake in Campo de Fiori by authorities in 1600 after the Roman Inquisition found him guilty of heresy. The exact location of the Mercato dei Fiori is marked by the “A” on this map:

The Blue Circle represents the Mercato Trionfale, the huge food market located here in Prati. We’re fortunate live close to both! As you can see, they are both quite accessible by metro stations, Ottaviano and Cipro. At the bottom of the Google Map you can see the street, Viale Vaticano. For a reference point, this is the street the entrance to the Vatican Museums is on.

Outside, the building is pretty ugly… but inside it’s incredible. The market is primarily for wholesale flower sales. Many web sites list the “operating hours” as 10:30 – 13:00. That’s not really true if you’re looking for cut flowers. The top floor contains the vendors for cut flowers. The pictures below are taken about 9:30 AM and if you look you can see many empty stalls. Trust me, they were full at 7 AM. Because these vendors sell primarily to businesses, they are usually packed up and gone by 10 AM! So if you wait till 10:30 to get cut flowers there will be slim pickings. Many websites also say that you can only get flowers on Tuesdays… also not true. If you’re polite and patient, these vendors will sell to you on any day. But they ARE GOING to take care of their business customers first. After all, you’re buying one bouquet, the businesses are buying hundreds at a time! You can get some incredible deals on all kinds of cut flowers but you’ll have to wait until they have completed their “business” transactions.

Early mornings, you’ll see many trucks, vans, and Piaggo Ape 50′s pulling up and making their purchases. Those folks that try and sell you roses at the Spanish Steps… probably bought their flowers here for about 10-20 cents each.

 In the lower level of the market is the “potted” plant section. Here you’ll find azaleas, hanging plants, spices, trees, verbena, rose bushes, mums, etc. On Tuesdays this place is packed by 8 AM… so again, I’m not sure I’d wait till 10 AM. You’ll see in the pictures below “price tags.” The vendors put these out on Tuesdays only… for their non-business customers.

You can get full flats of beautiful plants for under €8. For locals, this is the place to go. And the variety, size of the plants, and beauty are unmatched in Rome. So if you’re looking for a great diversion, get up early and head for the Mercato dei Fiori.

You can find the “same” clothes at a banacarella for far less than at that fancy shop on Via dei Corso. We’ve purchased GEOX shoes ay a bancarella for less than half the price of the GEOX store down the street.

The bancarelle allow the average Italian a more economical option.
The prices allow locals to shop OFTEN… and that’s necessary because “looking good” is important! Staying “in season” can be a challenge on a limited budget. The bancarelle probably offer the best “buys” in Rome.

Most of the bancarelle are located near metro stops, or on major street corners in parts of town that many tourists do not get to. You won’t see them by the Pantheon or the Colosseo, but head off into the many neighborhoods that encircle centro Rome and they are quite prevalent.

We’re fortunate to live near the Ottaviano and Cipro metro station… so we have many, many options. Often, my wife will get off the metro at the Ottaviano stop so we HAVE to walk by the bancarelle on our way home. Prices range from 50 cents to 50 euro… but most items are under €10. If you purchase more than one item, you can often “bargain” for a lower price on the second or third. I tend to avoid the one-euro clothing tables. You really have to dig through these. And saying that, when shopping at a bancarella it sometimes pays to be a little assertive! It can often get VERY crowded.

Don’t confuse the bancarelle with the guys whose goods are laid out on the street, or are standing holding a collection of “Prada” purses. The bancarelle are regulated by the City of Rome and are legal. If you buy from guy with goods laid out on a sheet, you could be fined…. not the case at a bancarelle.

So when in Rome, do as the Romans do – head for your nearest bancarelle… dig in and save!

Those traditions aside, you’ll still see many familiar Christmas and Seasonal displays in Italy. Christmas trees are becoming far more popular in Italy. In stores, there seem to be endless supplies of ornaments and decorations. Just like in the States, decorations seem to start earlier and earlier each year. The main decorations – the focus – is still the presepe, the Nativity scene or creche. Almost every church has a presepe.We often go from church to church to see the presepe. You can often find them outdoors in a piazza or public area. The largest presepe is undoubtedly in St. Peter’s Square.

Special thanks to Joy Davidow and the folks at InRomeNow. The following information about happenings in Rome is almost ALL pasted directly from their Holiday newsletter. For the most current information on what is going on in Rome, then definitely head to their website. They have new editions every Friday and I suggest you visit them prior the week prior to your time in Rome.

 CLASSICAL MUSIC

  At the Parco della Musica

Via Coubertin (Flaminio)
tel 06 199 109 783
www.listicket.it tel 892 982

Belcea Quartet with Valentin Erben, cello
The quartet has twice received the Royal Philharmonic SocietyAward for Chamber Music Ensemble. They are the Associate Ensemble at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama, London and are Quartet in Residence at the Atheneum Concert Hall in Bucharest. They record for the EMI label.
Music by Haydn, Shostakovich, Schubert
Sala Sinopoli, Friday, December 4, 8:30 pm

Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia
Antonio Pappano, conducting, with Mitsuko Uchida piano
One of the world’s most esteemed pianists, Uchida won Grammy awards for her recordings of the complete Mozart piano sonatas, the Debussy Etudes,  and the Schoenberg Piano Concerto. In April 2008, BBC Music Magazine presented her its Instrumentalist of the Year and Disc of the Year award. Beethoven: Piano Concerto n. 5 “Emperor”
Strauss: Ein Heldenleben
Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, December 5, 6 pm; Monday, December 7, 9 pm; Tuesday, December-8, 7:30 pm

Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia
Kent Nagano, conducting with Benedetto Lupo piano
Lupo won the bronze medal in the 1989  Van Cliburn International Piano Competition. He has performed with leading orchestras including the  London Philharmonic and the Chicago Symphony.
Mozart: Piano Concerto 23 K. 488
Stravinski: The Firebird
Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, December 12, 6 pm;
Monday, December 14, 9 pm; Tuesday, December 15, 7:30 pm

London Symphony Orchestra, Valerij Gergiev conducting
Concert benefiting FAI, the foundation that works to protect Italy’s architectural heritage. One of the leading conductors of his generation Gergiev heads the Marinsky Theater  Saint Petersburg and is principal guest conductor of the Metropolitan Opera New York.
Tchaikovsky: Romeo and Juliet overture
Ravel:- Pavane pour une infante défunte
Debussy: Jeux
Stravinsky: Jeu des cartes
Ravel: Boléro
Sala Santa Cecilia, Wednesday, December 16, 9 pm

King’s Singers
The Grammy award-winning a cappella choir formed at King’s College Cambridge in 1968 presents their traditional Christmas concert, with music by  Orlando di Lasso, Heinrich Schütz, Ivan Moody, Juan de Padilla, Max Reger, Arvo Pärt, Camille Saint-Saëns, and Christmas carols.
Sala Sinopoli, Friday, December 18, 8:30 pm

Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia
Antonio Pappano conducting with soloists Olga Guryakova soprano, Dmytro Popov tenor, Albert Dohmen bass. Guryakova has performed leading roles at La Scala, the Metropolitan Opera and other leading houses.
Rachmaninoff: The Bells
Rachmaninoff: Symphony n. 2
Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, December 19, 6 pm; Monday, December 21, 9 pm; Tuesday, December 22, 7:30 pm

Chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia
Renato Balsadonna conducting
Christmas concert with music by Bach, Resphighi, Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninoff, Händel and traditional Christmas songs.
Sala Santa Cecilia, Tuesday, December 23, 8:30 pm

 At the Auditorium della Conciliazione

Via della Conciliazione (near the Vatican)
tel 899 5000 55

Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma

Luiz Fernando Malheiro conducting
Borodin: Prince Igor Overture
Borodin: In the Steppes of Central Asia
Brahms: Symphony n. 3 in F major op. 90
Sunday, December 6, 5:30 pm and Monday, December 7, 8:30 pm

Francesco La Vecchia conducting
Beethoven: Symphony n. 6 in F major op. 68 “Pastorale”
Beethoven: Symphony n. 7 in A major op. 92
Sunday, December 13, 5:30 pm and Monday, December 14, 8:30 pm

Francesco La Vecchia conducting, Anita Selvaggio soprano
Beethoven: Coriolanus Overture, op. 62
Beethoven: “Ah perfido!” Concert aria for soprano and orchestra op. 65
Beethoven: Symphony n. 8 in F major op. 93
Sunday, Deccember 20, 5:30 pm and Monday, Decemer 21, 8:30 pm

Lior Shambadal conducting
Dvorak: Symphony n. 9 in E minor “From the New World”
Rimsky-Korsakov: Capriccio Espagnol
Stravinsky: Suite from the Firebird ballet
Sunday,  January 3, 5:30 pm and Monday, January 4, 8:30 pm

Orchestra Filarmonica di Bogato
Emin Guven Yaslicam conducting, Maria Kliegel cello
Mozart: Adagio and Fugue for Strings K546
Elgar: Concerto in E minor, op. 85 for cello and orchestra
Borodin: Symphony n. 4 in A minor “Unfinshed”
Sunday, January 10, 5:30 pm and Monday, January 11, 8:30 pm

 At the Aula Magna

Piazzzale Aldo Moro (San Lorenzo)
tel 06 49 91 - www.greenticket.it

Till Fellner piano
The third in a series in which Fellner performs the complete piano sonatas of Beethoven. Fellner has performed with leading orchestras worldwide. He records for the ECM label.
Saturday, December 12, 5:30 pm 

National Symphonic Orchestra of Ukraine, Kiev
Vladimir Sirenko conducting, Giuseppe Albanese piano
Rachmaninov: Concerto n. 2 in C minor op. 18
Schumann: Symphony n. 3 in E flat major op. 97
January 12, 8:30 pm  

 Rome Baroque Festival

A series of concerts in historic spaces.
www.romafestivalbarocco.it

Chiesa di S. Luigi de’ Francesi
Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, 20 (near Piazza Navona)
Mondo Novo Holland perform arias and sacred cantatas from 17th century Rome. Thursday, December 3, 9 pm 

Istituto Pontificio di Musica Sacra
Bob van Asperen, harpsichord
Friday, December 4, 9 pm

Basilica di San Eustachio
Piazza di San Eustachio (near the Pantheon)
Bob van Asperen, organ
Sunday, December 6,  8:30 pm

Musei Capitolini, Sala del Marco Aurelio
London Baroque with soprano Emma Kirkby. “Händel in Rome”
Sunday, December 7, 9 pm

Musei Capitolini, Sala del Marco Aurelio
Ensemble Lacrime Amorose “Le Cantate solistiche a Roma nel seicento”
Wednesday, December 9, 9 pm

Basilica di S. Apollinare
Piazza di Sant’Apollinare, 49 (near Piazza Navona)
Mass in Latin, with Giovannelli’s Mass for three choruses of 12 voices, performed by the Ensemble Festina Lente
Saturday, December 12, 6:30 pm and Sunday, December 13, 7 pm

Istituto Pontificio di Musica Sacra
Piazza di San Agostino, 20a (near Piazza Navona)
Evangelina Mascardi, baroque guitar and Lincoln Almad, Jesuit harp
Tuesday, December 15, 8:30 pm

Chiesa di S. Luigi de’ Francesi
Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, 20 (near Piazza Navona)
L’Arte dell’Arco:” Friends and rivals in the court of Queen Cristina of Sweden”
Wednesday, December 16, 9 pm

Chiesa di S. Maria dell’Anima
Via Santa Maria dell’Anima (Piazza Navona)
Musica Antiqua Latina, Händel in Rome
Thursday, December 17, 9:30  pm

Palazzo della Cancelleria
Piazza della Cancelleria (near Campo de’ Fiori)
Ensemble Ricercare Antico” Giovanni Girolamo Kapsberger, a German in Rome.
Saturday, December 19, 9 pm

POPULAR MUSIC

  
Editors
The English pop group released their third album, ‘In This Light And On This Evening’ last October.
Teatro Tenastrice, Via Giorgio Perlasca 69 (Prenestino)
Wednesday, December 3, 9 pm  -  www.ticketone.it

 Bobo Stenson
One of the most prominent jazz pianists on the European scene, Stenson began his career in his native Stockholm in the ’60s and has since performed with such greats as Sonny Rollins, Stan Getz and Gary Burton.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio
Friday, December 4, 9 pm  – tel  892 982www.listicket.it

Fausto Mesolella guitar and Mimmo Epifani mandoline
Ethnic Italian music.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio
Saturday, December 5, 9 pm  – tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

Glenn Miller Orchestra
The current incarnation of the historic big band is led by Larry O’Brien.
Auditorium della Concilaizione (Vatican)
Saturday, December 5, 6 pm – www.greenticket.it

Ludovico Einaudi: Nightbook
The pianist and composer, internationally  known for his minimal, atmospheric music, has composed an audio-visual event, performed here with Einaudi, backed by violin, viola, cello, guitar, percussion and live electronics, with live visuals by Matteo Ferroni.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia
Sunday, December 6, 9 pm  – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Peter Hammill, piano
One of the founding members of Van der Graaf Generator, the progressive rock group, Hammill began his solo career in 1971 with the album “Fool’s Mate.”
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli
Monday, December 7, 9 pm - tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

Gianmaria Testa
The guitarist and singer has released six albums and performed more than 1500 concerts throughout Europe and the USA. With “Da questa parte del mare,” (2007) a concept album dedicated to the theme of modern migration, he won the coveted Tenco Award for best album of the year.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio
Tuesday, December 8, 9 pm – tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

Deep Purple
The English rock group formed in 1968 were pioneers in the heavy metal and hard rock genres.
Palalottomatica, Palazzo dello Sport (Eur)
Saturday, December 12, 9 pm – www.ticketone.it

Joe Bonamassa guitar with Carmine Rojas bass,
Rick Melick keyboards, and Boogie Bowles drums
The  young American composer and guitarist began his career playing with B.B. King at the age of 12. He has gone on to become a major blues musician in his own right.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli
Sunday, December 13, 9 pm – tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

Cristiano De André
Ten years after the death of his father, legendary singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André, Cristiano begins a personal voyage through songs that have left their mark on the history of Italian music and literature. Having taken his place on stage beside his father nearly 30 years ago at the age of 18, he has gone on to keep his father’s music alive and to create music of his own, playing guitar, bouzouki, violin, piano and keyboards.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia
Sunday, December 13, 9 pm – tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

Diamanda Galas: Your Kisses are like Fire
Galas is one of the most unique vocalists on the planet, performing a wild show with her freaky voice. Her followers are ardent.
Aula Magna, Piazzale Aldo Moro (San Lorenzo)
Tuesday, December 15, 8:30 pm – www.greenticket.it

ROME GOSPEL FESTIVAL

Again this year, some of the most outstanding gospel groups make their way to Rome from all over the United States for this annual holiday celebration, at the Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli.
tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Harlem Gospel Choir
Founded in 1988, the group has performed with the Commodores, Michael Jackson and Prince. Their latest album is “I’m So Glad.”
Sunday, December 20, 9 pm

Lemmie Battles and the Virginia Mass Choir
The Grammy-nominated ensemble of 12 singers is currently on tour in Europe.
Monday, December 21, 9 pm

Craig Adams and the Voices of New Orleans
The son of legend Fats Domino, Gospel pianist Adams formed his group in 2002, winning the Big Easy Entertainment Awards in 2004.
Tuesday, December 22, 9 pm

The Anointed Pace Sisters
Nine women who began singing together in high school. Their debut album with Savoy Records entitled “U-Know” made the top ten in the Billboard Charts and stayed on the charts for over a year.
Wednesday, December 23, 9 pm

Voices of Deliverance
From Charleston, South Carolina, a traditional gospel vocal group.
Friday, December 25, 6 pm

J.J. Hairston and Youthful Praise
From Brooklyn, Hairston and his group were awarded the Soul Train Award for Gospel Artist of the Year, the GMWA, Excellence Award Choir of the Year in 2003.
Saturday, December 26, 9 pm

Cedric Ford and Heart of Worship
From Chicago, Ford’s album “Created2Worship” was released last May. He sings a modern, popular form of Gospel, influenced by artists like Stevie Wonder.
Sunday, December 27, 9 pm

Nicole Slack Jones and the Soul Sisters
From New Orleans, Nicole Slack Jones performed at Harrah’s Casino in Las Vegas singing soul, jazz and funk with  “The Big Easy Groovers”.
Monday, December 28, 9 pm

Oscar Williams and Perfected Praise
From Detroit, Williams performed at the annual Vatican Christmas concert in 2002 and 2003.
Tuesday, December 29, 9 pm

Robin Brown and Triumphant Delegation
From Georgia, Brown has performed at Gospel festivals throughout the USA.
Wednesday, December 30, 9 pm

Reverend Jessy Dixon and the Chicago Gospel Singers
Called the “King of Gospel” by the International Herald Tribune, Dixon has recorded more than three dozen albums, winning seven Grammy awards.
Thursday, December 31, 10 pm with a toast to the New Year at midnight

OTHER MUSIC  

Orchestra of the 41st Parallel
An ensemble of 18 women, playing winds, strings, piano and percussion, perform music inspired by countries of the 41st parallel, from Southern Italy to Turkey, Uzbekistan, Greece and Albania. Among their themes are texts selected by Amnesty International, written by women who have been subjected to violence.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio, Sunday, December 20, 9 pm  – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Devendra Bahart
With Noah Georgenseon guitar, Greg Rogove drums, Luckey Remington bass, and Rodrigo Amarante guitar. From the USA, Bahart’s music has been described as a indie rock and psychedelic folk. He presents his latest album, “What will we be.”
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, Sunday, December 20, 9 pm  – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Renato Zero: Zeronove Tour
The Italian pop star, on the scene since the 1970s, is back in town for the second time in two months, playing to those who couldn’t get tickets to his shows in November.
Palolottomattica, Palazzo dello Sport (Eur)
Sunday-Monday, December 21-22, 9 pm  – www.greenticket.it

PMJO Jazz Orchestra: Christmas in Jazz
Annual holiday concert
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli
Saturday, December 26, 11 am  – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it
   
Claudio Baglioni “Q.P.G.A.”
One of Italy’s biggest pop stars, Baglioni began his career in the 1970s, and has gone on evolve musically into more sophisticated sounds. He wrote the official Anthem for the 2006 Olympic Winter Games in Turin.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia
Sunday-Wednesday, December 27-30, 9 pm – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it
    
Paolo Fresu
The jazz trumpet player, one of Italy’s most respected musicians, explores the music of Corsica, with a backup group including Daniela di Bonaventura on bandeon and the seven-voice chorus A Filetta.
Audidtorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli
Thursday, January 7, 9 pm – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Joe Barbieri
Winner of the 2009 Lunezia PopOn Prize, the singer-songwriter presents his latest work, “Maison Maravilha.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Saturday, January 9, 9 pm – tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

Vernon Reid, guitar
With Jamaladeen Tacuma bass and Calvin Weston drums.
Born in London and raised in New York, Reid is remembered as the founder and composer of the Living Color band. He has released three solo albums and collaborated with musicians such as Tracy Chapman and Carlos Santana.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli, Sunday, January 10, 9 pm – tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Christmas Concert: Orchestra Popolare Italiana
Ambrogio Sparagna, conductor with vocalist Maria Pia De Vito
Christmas music of the Italian folk tradition
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli
Tuesday, January 5, 9 pm and Wednesday, January 6, 6 pm  – tel  892 982 www.listicket.it

OPERA, DANCE & THEATER

 Dunas
One of the most exciting contemporary dancer-choreographers, S. Larbi Cherkaoui, teams up with the flamenco virtusoso Maria Pagés in a unique dance dialogue. Presented by the RomaEuropa Festival.
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano (Flaminio)
Wednesday, December 2, 9 pm
tel 06 326 5991 romaeuropa.net

Philip Glass: The Witches of Venice
With libretto and images by Beni Montressor. A ballet-opera for children and adults, in which a little prince searches for a little girl like himself, encountering would-be captors, dark passageways and other obstacles along the way.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi
Saturday, December 5, 9 pm; Sunday, December 6, 6 pm; Monday, December 7, 9 pm. tel 892 982

The Russian Army Chorus and Dancers
A popular attraction, in Rome every year during the holidays.
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione (Vatican)
Saturday, December 5
www.greenticket.it

Certi Notti
Performed by the respected Aterballeto company of Reggio Emilio, the principal producing and touring dance company in Italy, with music by the Italian star Luciano Ligabue, based on a song from his 1995 album “Happy Birthday, Elvis”.
Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina
Thursday, December 17 – Sunday, December 20, 9 pm – www.teatrodiroma.net

La Traviata
The most recent Zefirelli production, a lavish affair, is revived for the holidays. The draw this time is the star power of tenor Fabio Armiliato and soprano Daniela Dessi.
Teatro dell Opera di Roma
Piazza Beniamino Gigli (Esquilino)
Friday, December 18 – Thursday, Deccember 31. – tel 06 48 16 02 55

Lo Schiaccianoci (The Nutcracker)
It’s that time again. The traditional version of Tchaikovsky’s ballet is performed by the Orchestra and Corp de Ballet of the Teatro dell Opera di Roma.
Teatro Nazionale, Via del Viminale (Esquilino)
Tuesday, December 13- Thursday, December 31 – tel 06 48 16 02 55

Lo Schiaccianoci (The Nutcracker)
Performed by the Balletto di Roma, in a modern version with choreography by Mario Piazza to Tchaikovsky’s music
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano
Thursday, January 7

Lo Schiaccianoci (The Nutcracker)
This one performed by the Croatian National Ballet, with the original Petipa choreography. 
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129
Monday-Tuesday, January 11-12 - www.ilsistina.com

FOR KIDS OF ALL AGES 

Natale al Parco della Musica
The park around the Auditorium turns into a Christmas wonderland December 5-January 6. The grounds are merrily decorated with lights, the area pedonale will be transformed into a skating rink, and a Christmas village with goodies for sale, as well as all sorts of surprises, appears on the grounds.
Skating rink: Open through February 8 . Entrance €8
Junior Orchestra and Children’s Chorus: Two fine ensembles, the JuniOrchestra and the Voci Bianche perform a series of holiday concerts.
Christmas music at Sala Petrassi, Wednesday, December 9, 7:30  pm
Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, December 19, 9 pm  -  tel 892 982 www.listicket.it

Christmas Market in Piazza Navona
Each year, the Piazza Navona is filled with stands selling Christmas decorations, the ubiquitous old lady known as “La Befana” who delivers gifts on the day of the Epiphany, goodies to eat, gifts of all kinds, and little rides for little kids. December 1- January 6.

Christmas Market at Piazza Mastai

Presepi: The Italian Christmas Crêche
The presepe is almost more iconic than the Christmas tree, here in Italy, and there are displays all over Rome. One Hundred Nativity Scenes is a Christmas crib exhibition displaying around 200 pieces by Italian and foreign artists at Rome’s Sala del Bramante. Designs range from classical 17th-century Neapolitan and Sicilian cribs to more contemporary styles. At Sala del Bramante  in Piazza del Popolo 1, the annual display of 100 Presepi is already open  daily through January 6, 9:30 am – 8 pm.

Il Canto di Natale: Burattini di San Carlino
A masterful marionette show, in Italian, based on Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol,” performed in the puppet theater on the grounds of the Borghese Gardens. Viale dei Bambini, Tuesday, December 8, 11:30 am and 4:30 pm; Saturday, December 12, 4:30 pm; Sunday, December 13, 11:30 am and 4:30 pm; Sunday, December 20, 11:30 am.  On December 20, there will be a special Christmas party, complete with a visit from Babo Natale, 4:30 pm. The Nutcracker will be performed puppet-style, December 26, 4:30 pm  and December 27, 11:30 am and 4:30 pm. €6,50 www.sancarlino.it Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport (Eur)
Wednesday-Thursday, December 2-3, 7:30 pm; Friday, December 4, 3:30 pm and 7:30 pm; Saturday-Sunday, December 5-6, 11:30 am; 3:30 and 7:30 pm.
www.greenticket.it

Disney Live!

Golden Circus
Liana Orfei is back in Rome with her popular circus, a traditional affair with lions, tigers and tight rope walkers.
Tendastrice, Via Giorgio Perlasca 69
December 23 -January 10 (with a New Year’s Eve gala)

GETAWAYS – Outside Rome

What better way to spend a holiday weekend than by taking a drive out of town to discover the Christmas installations in small towns surrounding Rome? The traditional presepe, or crêche, can be as elaborate as a minature village complete with running waterfalls and a lighting system that changes from dawn to dusk. It can be life-size or larger, and sometimes it can include live animals. The most charming are the imaginative scenes from a magical land. Here are few options:

Lago di Bracciano
Just 36 kilometers northwest of the city in the back hills of a bucolic Roman countryside, Lago di Bracciano has been a favorite weekend retreat since the time of the Romans and ruins discovered in the lake basin suggest an earlier history dating back to the Etruscans and further to the first neolithic European villages built 5,500 years ago. The lake is surrounded by three charming towns: Bracciano, Anguilara Sabazia and Trevignano. In the town of Bracciano, the Renaissance Orsini-Odescalchi Castle (1470) dominates the lakefront from its promontorial position. Trevignano was built above the lake and is still protectd by the ruins of the medieval Orsini fortress. The entrance to the town of Anguilara is a tree-lined avenue ending in a towering 16th century gate

Anguillara Sabazia- The first original water crêches (presepe) in the northern Lazio region, a large sculptural installation featuring the sacred family sheltered beneath a hut, with a well-lit interior for late evening or night viewing from the jetty, facing the historic Piazza del Molo.
Dec 14 trough Jan 6th

Trevignano Romano- Crowds coming to visit the various displays in Trevignano are directed to the town’s prize creation, a  presepe perched on a hillside slope, constructed from cartapesta and set in a palafitta, a primitive habitation. Throughout the town, there are numerous examples of presepe.

Bracciano- The presepe vivente is the most important Christmas event of the three lake towns, with  living characters and animals. Again, this year, a crew of 80 participants in costume, along with 20 technicians will show off the  elaborate crafted scenes of biblical  proportion.
Visits begin on Christmas day.

Getting there: To get to the town of Bracciano, the Roma-Viterbo train line departs from the Roma-Ostiense and St Peter’s stations. (www.trenitalia.com).
Buses leave hourly from the Lepanto bus depot, near Prati’s Cola di Rienzo shopping area and the Lepanto A line Metro stop. To get to the town of Anguillara, the Roma-Viterbo train line’s Aguillara stop is about four kilometers from the town center, with shuttle bus service from the station. The Lepanto-Bracciano bus service stops directly in the town center. To get to Trevignano Romano take the bus to Bracciano then transfer to a local bus arriving at Trevignano.

By car, from Corso Francia  take the SS Flaminia to the G.R.A. (The freeway that  forms a ring around Rome), exit onto the SS. Cassia-Veientana-Viterbo highway towards Viterbo. Continue for 35 km exiting at Settevene (signs indicate Trevignano, Bracciano, Anguillara, etc.) and turn left crossing the viaduct. Follow the curving country road of Settevene Palo until you arrive at a crossroads with further indication (Bracciano, Anguillara, Trevignano).

Coming through the city, the Via Cassia brings you to all three towns. From Corso Francia take the Cassia. (Bear to your left at the fork where the Cassia and Flaminia intersect off Corso Francia).. Follow the Cassia past an area called La Storta. Continue several kilometres and take a left at the Braccianense. From there, continue to Bracciano, Anguillara or Trevignano.

San Gregorio da Sassola
Prior to Italy’s unification, Sassola was known as San Gregorio, in memory of Papa Greogorio Magno (Gregory the Great 540-604), patriarch of the territories to which Sassola belongs. Sassola dates back to the colony of Albalongo and 3rd century B.C. Etruscan kings who ruled Rome.  This years marks the eighth edition of the exhibition celebrating the art of miniature presepe, which will debuts at the Chiesa di San Biagio (Madonna delle Grazie), Sunday December 6, 12:30 pm, and is repeated December 26 and January 1, 4:30 pm  The Museo del Presepio, opened in 2005,  houses a beautiful collection of crêches created over various periods from diverse regions.  Via Vittorio Emanuele 14, 10 am-12:30 pm and 3 -7:30 pm – www.sgregoriopresepi.altervista.org

Other presepe to visit in San Gregorio da Sassola
· Chiesa Parrocchiale
· Chiesa “San Sebastiano”

Getting there: By car, take the  Autostrda A24 (1) Roma-L’Aquila exit Tivoli – follow the signs for for via Prenestina or follow signs from Rome for Tivoli – enter Tivoli Centro and follow indications for San Gregorio da Sassola

Risvondoli, Abruzzo
Rivisondoli, like the majority of the  region was destroyed during the disastrous earthquake of 1706 but rebuilt immediately thereafter. Tourism got underway with the arrival of the Italian royal family in 1915, and continues to this day, as the town is one of the most important ski resorts in Central-Southern Italy.
For the town of Rivisondoli, the presepe vivente  is a religious, folkloric and cultural manifestation. Since its  inception in 1951, the ritual has taken place yearly on January 5th. The newborn chosen for the occasion is determined by the last born child of the preceding year, while the woman who represents  the Madonna is selected in a special event on December 8th, the celebration of the Immaculate Conception. The event attracts crowds in the hundreds.

Getting there: By car take Autostrada A/25, (toll station Pratola Peligna – Sulmona) Piano delle Cinque Miglia, Rivisondoli. It’s about 161 km from the city.

OTHER SEASONAL EVENTS

• Saint Peter’s Square in Vatican City holds the popular midnight mass.
• Murano in Venice, displays a seven meter tall tree of glass built by glass master Simone Cenedese. They hold a yearly program of decorations called Natale di Vetro, Christmas in glass.
• Torino - One of the best places for Christmas lights. Over 20 kilometers of streets and squares are illuminated by some of the best illumination artists in Europe from late November through early January.
• Near the top of Monte Ingino, above Gubbio, Umbria, a huge Christmas tree, 800 meters tall, is made up of 450 lights. In 1991 the Guinness Book of Records named it “The World’s Tallest Christmas Tree.” The tree is topped by a star that can be seen for nearly 50 kilometers. The tree is lit up every year on 7 December, the evening before the feast of the Immaculate Conception.
• Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Alps celebrates with a skiers torchlight parade – At midnight on Christmas Eve hundreds of people ski down an Alpine peak carrying torches.
• In Abbadia di San Salvatore, near Montalcino, the Fiaccole di Natale or Festival of Christmas Torches (Christmas Eve) is celebrated. Carols and torchlight processions in memory of the shepherds from the first Christmas Eve.
• Città di Castello, in Umbria, celebrates Christmas Eve in on the Tiber River. Towards evening, a group of canoeists, each dressed as Father Christmas, with their canoes illuminated by lights, make their way along the river to the bridge at Porta San Florido where a crib is suspended over the water. When they get out of their canoes, they give small presents to the children gathered there.
• Lago Trasimeno, also in Umbria, celebrates with Soul Christmas, Umbria Gospel Festival, December 8 – January 6.
• Pezze di Greco: Living Nativity Scene, December 25-January 3
• Celico: Living Nativity Scene, December 25
• Tarcento: Pignarul Giant Bonfire Festival, January 6
• Cividale: Historical Pageant and Costume Parade, January 6
• Gemona: Messa del Tallero Medieval Pageant, January 6
• Alesso: Twenty Year Festival, December 31
• Resia, Cicigolis (Pulfero): La Koleda, December 31
• Sauris, Cicigolis, Cave del Predi: Star Festival
• Paularo: La Femenate Bonfire, January 6
• Latium – Greccio: Re-enactment of St. Francis Building the First Nativity Scene, Christmas Eve
• Calizzano: Living Nativity Scene, December
• Roccavignale: Living Nativity Scene, December
• Diano Arentino: Living Nativity Scene, December
• Riomaggiore: Nativity Scene, December
• Milan: Epiphany Parade of the Three Kings proceeds from the Duomo to the church of Sant’Eustorgio, January 6
• Asti: Silver and Gold in the Night: New Year’s festivities organized by neighborhood committies, December 31
• Alagna: Ice Nativity Scene, Christmas Eve
• Cessole: Living Nativity Scene with Re-Enactment of Ancient Professions, followed by hot chocolate, vin brûlé, roasted chestnuts and grappa, Christmas Eve
• Maranzana: Living Nativity Scene with Costumed Parade and Re-Enactment of Ancient Professions, followed by vin brûlé and roasted chestnuts, Christmas Eve
• Moncalvo: Santa Claus gives gifts to the children, December 22
• Roatto: Bonfire Celebration and Exchange of Gifts, followed by panettone, spumante and bruschetta, Christmas Eve
• Schierano (Passerano Marmorito): Torchlit Re-Enactment of Christmas Eve in Costume, Christmas Eve
• Piana degli Albanesi: Greek Orthodox Ritual and Procession, January 6, incorporating traditional Albanian costumes and rituals.
• Acireale: Living Nativity Scene, December
• Cavalese: Trial of the Witches, first week of January
• Tesero: The Nativity Representation, December
• Bibione: Living Nativity Scene, Church of S.M. Assunta, December 24-25
• Siracusa – Santa Lucia Day, December 13, is celebrated in many Italian towns. One of the biggest celebrations is in Sicily where the city of Siracusa holds a huge parade carrying the saint on a golden coffin to the Church of Santa Lucia. On December 20 there is another parade to return her to the crypt
• Barga, in northwestern Tuscany. At 7:30pm on December 23, about 200 costumed participants congregate behind Joseph and Mary at the city gates. They then wander through the streets requesting shelter of the artisans, who also wear colorful costumes. Everybody winds up in the piazza just in time to see a comet star lead the Wise Men to the Baby Jesus’ manger.
• Capri – Local folklore groups perform in the Piazzetta on January 1 and 6; also in Piazza Diaz in Anacapri.
• Erice – The Rassegna Mediterranea degli Strumenti Popolari (Mediterranean Folk Music Festival) is held in this lovely art town late in December. Musicians come from all over the world with their bagpipes, tambourines, flutes, Jew’s-harps, lutes and other instruments, filling the beautiful old streets with their melodies.

 Also, special thanks to Martha Bakerjian from About.com Guide  &  http://www.initaly.com/ for the calendar information.

At Christmas, Rome is filled with festivities, festivals, religious ceremonies, concerts, art exhibits, and just plain fun! It’s a wonderful time of year to come to the city. The streets get crowded with shoppers, the seasonal lights brighten narrow alleys, and the air is festive. There are many Christmas markets, most famously Piazza Navona

To get you in the spirit, here’s a few pictures from last year!

The lighting of the Christmas tree at St. Peter’s. We waited almost two hours to see the tree lit.Halfway through the ceremony it started to rain, and rain, and rain. We felt so sorry for the choirs and church officials who “weathered” the entire downpour. This year we will show up 1.5 hours AFTER the “scheduled” lighting time

Each year, a couple weeks before Christmas, there is the Annual Santa Claus race that starts at the Colosseo. It’s pretty incredible to see hundreds of folks in Santa Claus outfits forming up around the colosseo on a Sunday morning. There are rollerbladers, runners, families (all dressed in SC outfits), and guys like this. And then they all take off – Can you imagine riding this bike on the cobblestones of Rome? What fun!

The beautiful Fendi building, located where Via Corso meets Via dei Condotti (Rodeo Drive in Rome). This “bracelet” changes colors every few minutes. Bellisima!

This is the view from the balcony of our apartment near the Vatican. The lights are here from early December until early January. And you will see this in streets all over Rome!

These were the street decorations for Via dei Condotti. They’re beautiful, expensive, and … sponsored by Mercedes Benz. See the logo in the decoration. You would expect no less on this street. They are certainly stunning.

Shopping near the Spanish Steps at Christmas!

This tree decorated the Spanish Steps last year. Each night the steps filled up at shoppers and walkers taking a break. The tree constantly changed colors and is visible all the way down Via dei Condotti.

Piazzas and restaurants certainly get “decked out.” Here is a look at some of the restaurants in front of the Pantheon last year. Yes, a few ALREADY have their decorations in place.

Every Church has a Nativity Scene. Last year the Vatican had two -  one inside St. Peter’s Basilica and this one which is built outside in St. Peter’s Square. It takes a few weeks to build this life-size Nativity scene and they’ve already started building this year’s!

On New Year’s Eve, priorities change in Rome. Here, street vendor sells bottles of champagne. There’s no open container laws in Rome so if you want to walk down the street drinking your champagne, more power to you. Note the “makeshift” table built of cardboard boxes

A full moon over a Christmas tree welcomes in the New Year. This was shot through columns down by Trajan’s Column.

There are concerts all over town on New Year’s Eve in Rome. This is perhaps the largest. See the Colosseo in the distance in the top picture. I’m standing on Via Fiori Imperiali just in front of the entrance to the Forum. It took me about 15 minutes to get here from Piazza Venezia, That’s how crowded this street becomes. All down the street there are huge monitors and speakers so you can watch and hear the bands performing in front of the Colosseo. This is about as far as I got… and then headed for other venues!

It’s hard to explain Piazza di Popolo on New Year’s Eve. So I’ll just try and show you through the above pictures. First, think of 10,000+ people standing around, crowded, shoulder-to-shoulder, with fireworks…  for about two hours. Their goal is to “out-do” everyone else in their contribution to this “locals” firework event. Yes, for almost two hours everyone fires off their own firework stash.

In the first picture you see the outer ring, early in the evening (about 10:15 PM). Here you stand on the outer edge of Piazza di Popolo and in front of you is a clearing. In this “fire-zone,” you run out, place down your Roman Candle or bottle rocket and then run back to the safety of the crowd. While you’re doing this, other folks are ALSO running out with their fireworks. So there is a lot of people running in and out of the danger zone. While you’re running, folks from in the crowd are throwing their firework INTO the cleared area… so you’re sometimes dodging fireworks as you seek safety. How no one gets killed is still something I can’t figure out.

In Picture 2, you see a group of kids who have run to the middle of the Piazza… where the obelisk and lions are. Once you risk your life to get to the middle, you’re really trapped there. But undoubtedly, if you survive, you have the best view – especially if you sit up on one of the lions. You can see the bottle rockets and fireworks going off all around these folks.

In Pictures 3 and 4 you can see how dense the crowd can become. It gets so packed you can’t move! But people are still racing into the clearing and then racing back. Of course, This is Italy, so everyone tries to out-do everyone else. Fireworks are bundled together. multiple explosions drew applause and OOH’s and AHH’s from the crowd. I found myself near the front of the pack and the guy next to me is daisy-chaining Roman Candles together to get the BIGGEST explosion. All the while he’s smoking a cigar!

At 12 midnight, the bells ring and that’s when I was in for another surprise. All night long I’d seen folks buying champagne bottles from the local street vendors and foolish me, I thought they were for drinking. Nope – at 12 midnight, EVERYONE popped their champagne and proceeded to SPRAY EACH OTHER. I am almost drowned in champagne. I realized now that you DO NOT wear nice clothes in Rome on New Year’s Eve. Well, not if you’re going to Popolo!

The last picture is shot outside the Northern gates of the city, as I ran for my life out of Popolo. The fireworks are from Villa Borghese and go on for another 20-30 minutes. These culminate the celebrations at Popolo!

And if you still have ANY energy left on New Year’s Day, you can head over to the Vatican to catch the Pope’s blessing at 12 noon. It’s an incredible event and St. Peter’s Square is very full.

At the conclusion of the New Year’s blessing, the multiple marching bands march out. It’s an disorganized retreat from a structured event. What a contrast.

These two USA marching bands had a great time, playing in St. Peter’s Square and then having a “jam” session just outside Castel Sant’ Angelo – a great way to celebrate the Holidays.

Credit romephotoblog.blogspot.com/

Credit: Flickr – Deborah Swain

Then, there are the markets! The most famous Christmas market in Rome is at Piazza Navona, but they are all over town. You can get all kinds of food, presents and of course, a Befana! These markets are usually open until January 6.

That’s a small taste of the sights in Rome over the holidays. There are many, many other places to see and go. If you’re coming to Rome, you’ll certainly enjoy your Roman Holiday! Auguri!

Rome is blessed with a wide variety of places to shop… and you cannot enjoy Rome – or any city in Italy – without visiting a local market. Fortunately, in Rome there is an abundance of “local” markets. Markets in Rome sell foods, collectables, flowers, antiques… you name it you can probably find it here in a Roman market!

Detailed below is a list of markets all through town. There are MANY more markets than these listed below. In addition, there are also the vendors who just set up on the street corners. You can walk around many corners in Rome and find a neighborhood market. In the list below I hope to give a starting point. Good luck!

Monday – Saturday

Campo de’ Fiori
Piazza Campo de’ Fiori.
Bus 44, 46. 62. 64, 70, 81, 90, 90b, 492. 46, 62, 64, 90, 70, 186
7.00 AM- 1.30 PM
Rome’s most picturesque market is also its most historical. Its name, Campo de’ Fiori, which translates as field of flowers, sometimes misleads people into expecting a flower market. In fact the name is said to derive from Campus Florae (Flora’s square) – Flora being the lover of the great Roman general Pompey. A market has actually been held in this now rather shabby, but still beautiful, piazza for many centuries. Every morning, except Sunday, the piazza is transformed by an array of stalls selling colourful fruit and vegetables, meat, poultry and fish. One or two stalls specialize in pulses, rice, dried fruit and nuts and there are also flower stalls situated near the fountain.

Piazza San Cosimato – Trastevere
Piazza San Cosimato.
Buses: 13, 44, 75, 710, 718, 719, 280.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM
A traditional open-air, high quality, food market with stalls for flowers and household items.

Testaccio
Piazza di Testaccio
Buses: 13, 23, 57, 95, 716.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM
Rich and lively market, in a working class area sells mostly food. Mercato di Testaccio contains greengrocers and butchers, fishmongers and sellers of cheese and dairy products, housed in a more permanent structure.

Via Magnagrecia – S. Giovanni
Via Magnagrecia
Buses: 4, 87.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM
Covered, predominantly food market.

Via Sannio – S. Giovanni
Via Sannio. Metro A – S. Giovanni.
Buses: 118, 87, 16, 15, 81, 13.
8.00 AM- 1.00 PM, Sat until 6.00 PM.
Situated under the Aurelian walls, it is very similar to the Porta Portese market but much smaller. Mostly sells used and new clothing as well as camping goods. The centre of the market is covered, with stands on the surrounding streets. It sells mainly clothes and accessories.

Mercato dell’Unita – Prati
Via Cola di Rienzo.
Buses: 70, 81, 186, 280, 913.
7.00 AM- 8.00 PM
Covered food market, extremely interesting architecturally.

Ponte Milvio – Farnesina
Piazzale Ponte Milvio.
Buses: 911, 446, 201, 301, 168, 232, 220.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM
Predominantly food, well stocked and well known for its fish.

Via Chiana – Trieste
Via Chiana
Buses: 57, 168, 319, 38, 58.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM
Covered market, predominantly food and of good quality.

Piazza Alessandria – Trieste
Piazza Alessandria.
Buses: 36, 37, 60, 61, 62, 136, 137, 490, 495.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM.
Food market housed in a liberty-style construction

Via di Val Melaina – Nuovo Salario
Via de Val Melaina
Buses: 38, 137.
6.00 AM- 1.30 PM
High-quality food market, among the most economical in Rome.

Mercato Andrea Doria (Also known as Trionfale) – Vatican-Prati
Via Andrea Doria.
Metro: Ottaviano. Bus 23, 70, 490, 907, 913, 990, 991, 994, 999.
7.00 AM- 1.30 PM
This market used to stretch the whole length of this wide avenue. Now it has been reorganized into a new building! Apart from the magnificent displays of fruit and vegetables, it has numerous stalls selling meat, poultry, fish and groceries, as well as an interesting clothes and shoe section. Situated northwest of the Vatican Museums, it is a little off the normal beaten track and has remained very much a Roman market that caters for the needs of the large local population. It is one of Rome’s best stocked and cheapest food markets.

Mercato delle Stampe
Largo della Fontanella di Borghese.
8.00 AM to 7.00 PM
This market is a veritable haven for lovers of old prints, books (both genuine antiquarian and less-exalted second-hand), magazines and other printed ephemera. The quality varies, but it is a good deal more specialized than the banche or stalls near Termini station which area more obvious tourist trap. Italian-speaking collectors can enjoy a field day leafing through back issues of specialist magazines. Other visitors might prefer the wonderful selection of illustrated art books and old prints of Rome. It is a good place to pick up that Piranesi print of your favorite Roman vista, ruin or church – but be prepared to bargain hard.

Mercato di Piazza Vittorio – Esquilino
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.
Metro: Vittorio Emanuele. Tram 14, Bus 70, 71, 105, 516, 517, 11, 14
7.00 AM- 2.00 PM
Bustling Piazza Vittorio was, until recently, perhaps the most Roman of the city’s larger markets. Organized as a cramped corridor of stalls around a central garden, it is the place where bargain-hunting popolari, Rome’s bustling shoppers, buy their food. Stallholders offer cheap prices if you buy by the kilo. Lately it has become more international and now features African and Asian food stalls. Some stalls have moved to the new site in Via Gioiitu; it is also one of the cheapest and best stocked food market around with excellent fish and regional cheeses.

Fiera del Linro (Book Show)
Via delle Terme di Diocleziano
9.00 AM to 7.00 PM

Tuesdays

Mercato dei Fiori
ViaTrionfale.
Metro Ottaviano. Bus 23, 70.
10.30 AM to 1.30 PM
Essentially a trade market, the Flower Market, just north of Via Andrea Doria, is open to the public only on Tuesdays. Housed in a covered hall, it has two floors brimming over with cut flowers – upstairs and all kinds of pot plants on the lower floor. Anyone who has an interest in flowers will enjoy this wonderful array of Mediterranean blooms, which are on sale at giveaway prices.

Fridays

Mercato Villaggio Olimpico – Flaminio
Viale della XVII Olimpiade.
Buses: 910, 225.
08.00 AM to 1.30 PM
Stalls laden with food, household items, straw goods, jewellery, clothing; captures the flavor of a roving country market, excellent prices included.

Saturdays

Via Tirso and Via Metauro Market
Via Tirso 14-Via Metauro 21
Open Saturdays and Sundays; Closed on the fourth Sunday of the month
10.00 AM to 8.00 PM
Interesting antiques and jewellery
Phone: 06-855-27-73

Lungotevere Capoprati
Ponte Milvio
Afternoons from 15:00
Charming antiques market along the banks of the Tiber: antique furniture, collectors’ items.

Sundays

Eco-Solidale
Comunità di S. Egidio, Via del Porto Fluviale, 2
Metro: Piramide ‘B’ line, FS Ostiense
6.00 AM to sunset
Solidarity and antique trade at the “eco-solidale market”, organized by the the S. Egidio community – Charity sale of toys and bric-a-brac.
Tel. 06/8992234

Palatenda – Il Circo del Mercanti
Between Ponte delle Valli (Via delle Valli) and Via Conca d’oro
Metro: Tiburtina ‘B’ line, change for FS Nomentana
9.00 AM to sunset
Some 40 stalls of crafts, clothing and collectables
Info 339/1305115

Centro Sportivo
Via Angelo Battelli
All day
Open-air antique market, books, collectors’ items

Via Tirso and Via Metauro Market
Via Tirso 14 &Via Metauro 21
Open Saturdays and Sundays; Closed on the fourth Sunday of the month
10.00 AM to 8.00 PM
Interesting antiques and jewellery
Phone: 06-855-27-73

Via Francesco Crispi
All day from 10:30 (Closed during Summer)
Antiques and collectors’ items.

Piazza della Marina (also known as the Garage Sale at Borghetto Flaminio)
Piazza della Marina, 32
10.00 AM to 8.00 PM
A wide selection of various articles from clothing to small antiques, books, and handmade articles. Some high-end designer clothing.

Porta Portese
Off Viale Trastevere
5.00 AM to 2.00 PM
This is the largest market in Rome. Stallholders come from as far away as Naples and set up shop in the early hours of the morning – if you are strolling in that direction after a late night in Trastevere, it’s well worth pausing just to watch them. Anything and everything seems to be for sale, piled high on stalls gin carefully arranged disorder – clothes, shoes, bags, luggage, camping equipment, linen, towels, pans, kitchen utensils, plants, pets, spare parts, cassettes and CD’S, old LPs and 78s.Furniture stalls tend to be concentrated around Piazza Ippotito Nievo along with what they call “antiques”, though you may have to sort through an awful lot of junk before finding a real one. And then you will have to bargain for it. A lot of people go just for the fun of it and always end up buying something. A must if you have a Sunday morning to spare. For more info, see our separate post on Porta Portese  

Porta Portese 2
Viale Palmiro Togliatti and Via Predestina
Metro: Anagnina ‘A’ line
6.00 AM to 2.00 PM
Rome’s biggest market moves northwards, to the Prenestina area on the Viale Palmiro Togliatti, with 100s of stalls offering new and used items of all kinds.

Pulp Fashion
Via Monte Testaccio, 66
Metro: Piramide ‘B’ line
All day
Vintage clothing, tie-dyed hippy shirts, music and street gear.
Tel. 33975539923

Paradise at Hotel Parco dei Principi – Atelier Ritz
Via G. Frescobaldi, 5, in the elegant halls of Hotel Parco dei Principi
10.00 AM to 7.30 PM
This market aims primarily at women’s clothing and accessories.

Micca Market
Via Pietro Micca 7/a – In the Micca Club, a short way away from Porta Maggiore
Many funny and bizarre objects “Carnaby Street style” and the opportunity to listen to live music and to taste a “Milanese aperitif”
Tel. 06/87440079

Special Markets

Anticaglie a Villa Glori
Viale Maresciallo Pilsudski
Saturdays & Sundays
9.00 AM to 8.00 PM
Antique porcelain vases, paintings, furniture

Piazza Augusto Imperatore
Piazza Augusto Imperatore
First and third Sunday of the month
Just a short walk from the Piazza del Popolo or the Spanish Steps with 70 stalls of antiques, collectables and bric-a-brac.
Tel. 0636005345

Ponte Milvio
Ponte Milvio (Milvian Bridge)
Metro: Flaminio ‘A’ line, then No. 2 tram to Piazza Mancini
First Sunday of the month
On the River Tiber, large antiques, crafts and collectables fair.
Tel. 069077312 / 069042459

Mercantino dei Partigiani
Piazza dei Partigiani
First Sunday of the month, except August
This small flea market is held in the basement of a garage and sells furniture and objects from 1940s and 1950s. Sometimes you even see middle class housewives from smart districts selling family items. The prices are really low, a style Italians refer to as modernariato

La Soffitta in Garage
Underground car park off piazza dei Partigiani, Ostiense Station (Park-Si).
First Sunday of the month
10.00 AM to 7.00 PM
Show-market, trades, collection exchanges and antiques.

Piazza Mazzini
Piazza Mazzini
Metro: Lepanto ‘A’ line
Second Sunday of the month
Over 100 stalls of antiques, collectables and crafts,
Tel. 069044263 / 3389657690

MONTEROTONDO
Just outside of Rome
Second Sunday of the month
This market is called the “the island of treasure” antique market.
Tel. 06 906 74215

Underground
Via Crispi, 96
Second Saturday and Sunday of the month.
This is a relatively new flea market that is held in a huge 4-floor garage between Piazza del Popolo and Via Veneto. There’s a bit of everything here, including a certain Mario Ambrosini, a screenwriter who worked with Fellini, who sells the miniature gifts you find in Kinder chocolate eggs to collectors and members of the Kindermania club. Prices vary and are often on the high side – All year except July, August, September.
10.30 AM to 7.30 PM

Villa Glori
Viale Maresciallo Pilsudsky
Metro: Flaminio ‘A’ line, change for train to FS Piazza Euclide.
Second Sunday of the month
9.00 AM to 8.00 PM
100+ stalls of furniture, collectables, crafts, artisan artefacts, and clothing in the upmarket Parioli area.

Valnerina (Villa Chigi markrt)
Via Valneria
Second Sunday of each month
7.30 AM till Sunset
Antique books and magazines

ALBANO LAZIALE
Castelli Romani Park
Second Sunday of the month.
Antiquary and handmade products

Giardino d’inverno
Via Panama, 25
Second and fourth Sundays of each month
10.00 AM to 7.00 PM
A little bit of everything

Mercato Antiquaria dell’ E.U.R.
Piazzale Luigi Sturzo
Metro: EUR Magliana or Palassport, ‘B’ line
Third Sunday of the month
90 stalls of furniture, collectables and bric-a-brac in the Fascist-era EUR suburb of southern Rome.
Tel. 065915750

Hotel Hilton
Roma Hotel Hilton, Via Cadlolo 101
Metro: Cipro, ‘A’ line, then bus (907,913, 991, 999) or walk to Via delle Medaglie d’oro)
Third Sunday of the month,
Stalls of collectables and bric-a-brac.
Tel. 0636307220

Prati Market
Via Lepanto
Metro: Lepanto ‘A’ line
Third Sunday of each month
9.00 AM to 8.00 PM
This market exhibits and sells an array of handicrafts, antiques, and hobby articles.

Curiosita’ in Terrazza Peroni
Via Mantova, 24 – Fourth floor of the car park
Third Sunday of the month,
10.00 AM to 9.00 PM
This is located in the underground parking garage of the former Peroni brewery.

Hotel Palatino
Via Cavour
Third Saturday of the month and the fourth Saturday in May
Comic books

Mostra Antiquaria di Villa Lazzaroni
Via Appia, 520
Third Sunday of the month
Antiques

Piazza Verdi
Piazza Verdi
Metro: Policlinico ‘B’ line then #3 or 19 tram to Piazza Ungheria – North-east of Villa Borghese
Fourth/last Sunday of the month
130+ stalls in the heart of the sophisticated Parioli district. Antiques and modern antiques: furniture, miscellaneous items, documents, coins and stamps.
Tel. 068552773

Antiquari in Testacio
Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice
Fourth Sunday of the month
9.00 AM to 8.00 PM

Galleria delle Stimmate
Largo delle Stimante, 1
Fourth Sunday of the month
10.00 AM to 7.30 PM
Mostly household goods and some jewelry. Also has excellent buys on antique lace, serving dishes, and old cutlery.

Market of Piazzale Ankara
Flaminio neighborhood
Fourth Sunday of the month
8.00 AM till sunset
Antiques, paintings, furniture, books
Tel. 339/7484573

Curiosit d’altri tempi (Curiosities from other times)
Viale Kant
Fourth Sunday of the month
8.00 AM till sunset
Antiques

Fashion al Tiberio
Grand hotel Tiberio -Via Lattanzio 51
Second-hand market. About 50 stalls with accessories like silk foulards, pashminas, pochettes, earrings and even shoes. And then clothes (also by famous stylists like Giorgio Armani, Dolce e Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli), and handicrafts like embroidered bags and costume jewellery.
Info 338/8645063.

 Market information was pulled from these links… Go to these for more great info! 

• Rome Guide
• Roman Rental – Markets in Rome
• Rome – Anglo-info – Markets
• TRF – Cotober 2008 – Rome Markets

 
You can find almost anything at Porta Portese. Sure, there are plenty of items “Made in China,” but if you search – and then dig – you can make some wonderful discoveries. Having lived in Madrid, the bargaining that goes on at El Rastro is impressive, but bartering with an Italian is an art form. 

The market is located “about” from Piazza di Porta Portese to Piazza Ippolito Nievo. You can get to the Porta Portese market by catching multiple buses, including the #280 or #23. They both get you close to the main gate. You can also, from Largo Argentina, catch the #8 tram across the Tiber. It’s the fifth stop after you cross the river. Just get off the tram when everyone else does and you’ll enter the market from Viale di Trastevere . 

 If you’re bargain hunter this is THE place to come! Many of the stands sell generic dime-store goods or apparel. A few have “reconditioned” goods at rock bottom prices. There are also antiques, furniture, appliances, utensils, and every form of clothing – you name it!

Do be careful when shopping. Gypsies will approach you and use the “cardboard” trick to try and reach into your pockets. Other pickpockets also work the area. Be aware of your surroundings. I would not bring a large backpack into Porta Portese. 

 Porta Portese was featured in the in the 1947 movie by De Sica, “Bycicle Thief”, as the main character looks for his stolen bicycle. I would imagine that a “few” things in Porta Portese arrived here by dubious means.

  We often go, wander for hours, and not buy anything. It’s a great way to spend a morning and mingle with the locals in a colorful environment. There are sometimes some very unique “finds.” The prices are cheaper than many of the “tourist” shops near monuments and sites.

Your experience at Porta Portese is what you make of it! There are places to eat or sit at a cafe’ and watch the bustle around you. Or you can “get into it,” like my wife, and dig through EVERY bin! Each week there are new vendors and “new” merchandise in the market. Now more tightly regulated than in previous years, it’s an interesting look at Roman life. If you’ve got a few hours on a Sunday morning, this can certainly be an Roman experience you will remember!