Easter, April 12 this year, is rapidly approaching. I thought this would be a great time to talk about my experience in St. Peter’s last year – and if you’re coming, prepare you for the “scene.” We had friends visiting from the States and they really wanted to go to St. Peter’s for Easter Mass. The service starts at 10:30 AM so we arrived about an hour early. Unfortunately since this was not planned, we had no tickets. Living here, we just did what all the Italians were doing… we didn’t wait in line, but just walked in. As a result we got seats that were about 6 rows from the railing. The square began filling rapidly. The pictures below were taken at the Easter 2008 Mass.
In front of us was a group of young ladies from South America. They were leading cheers and were taking “requests” from the crowd. We saw many monks, nuns, and priests arrive in groups, all in distinctive dress. The Swiss Guard were in their dress uniforms and there were banners and signs everywhere!
To our misfortune it started to rain… and rain… and rain. We stayed about 2 hours and finally had to leave. As you can see from the picture above, the rain did not deter folks from coming to the service. The umbrellas were out as far as you could see. I’ve never seen St. Peter’s Square so crowded!
It was an interesting service, with lots of pomp and ceremony. One challenge in the “seating area” is was like bumper cars. NO ONE stays in their area. You are constantly having folks drag their chairs up or come stand in front of you. It was like two hours plus of roller derby! I’d never seen anything like it at a church ceremony! The 5 foot wide aisle were on rapidly filled up as people dragged their chairs closer to the Pope.
Don’t count on any support from the Swiss Guard or Local Police to prevent the influx of folks who will fill the aisles… it’s every man and woman for themselves! Our challenges were further compounded by 150,000 umbrellas! By the time we left, all of the chairs had moved forward, filling the aisles and exit routes. It was chaotic!
Yet it was a great experience (hope the weather is better this April). If we go this year, we’ll arrive late, stand towards the back of the Square – under the colonnade if raining, and NOT face the crush of last year! The square was full and the crowd spilled almost halfway down the Via della Conciliazione towards Castel Sant’ Angelo. Bring your camera, umbrella, and hockey pads!
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There are more than 900 churches in Rome. Certainly reading in advance with help you separate and enjoy the many churches in the city. Order here or see our Amazon.com Travel Store for more travel items for your upcoming European trip.
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Header: 360° Panorama Piazza San Pietro – Photo by SEIMA
We were fortunate enough to be in Rome for 2 Easter masses.First time was in 2002 celebrated by the Great John Paul II.The second was celebrated by then Cardinal Ratzinger (now Benedict XVI).This was a week before John Paul passed away.
We (my girlfriend and I)were standing along the barrier that seperated the seated section that Ron mentioned and the rest of the square,to the right close to where they set up the big screen monitor.When John Paul came to his apartment window there was a huge cheer.Our backs were to him and as we turned around we could see him clear as day.The people behind us were under the collanade and couldn’t see him.Everyone pushed back,they were like 100 deep and I thought we were going to be crushed! I’m 6’5″ 320 lbs and was getting nervous.Iwas trying to keep Eva from getting hurt.The police moved the barriers so that the crowd could move back and all was fine.They have “organized chaos” in Itlay.
When the Pope passed we were in St.Peter’s square.We ran back to our hotel since we were supposed to leave the next morning.Our hotel was already booked solid and I spent the next 3 hours calling hotels to find a room.We finally found 1 and the man at the desk held it for us until we could change our flight arrangements.
Talk about crowds!!!!We were in line the day they were moving The Popes body to St Peter’s.The small streets were closed around the Vatican.The only way in was along the Via Conciliazione.I didnt think we were going to ever get there.It took about 2 1/2 hours for us to get into the square.We were there as they transported the body in and when they started the public viewing of the pope we were one of the first groups in.When we came out of St Peter’s it was pretty late and there were peolpe camping anywhere they could.Teenagers sleeping on the streets in sleeping bags right outside of the square.By the next day they were lined up all the way across the Tiber river.
Forgive my rambling ,I could go on and on.Just alot of fond memories.
We are returning next month for the Beatification of John Paul II on May 1st.
I know we’ll get into some more crowds as I hear 4 million are expected to be there
Oh Wow! Easter Mass with the Pope! I did a day tour with Ron in Nov. of 2008 and had a ball. I’d love to be there at Easter, even with the crowds.
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience!!! I am going to Rome this Easter and actually I did not know about the tickets for the Mass until yesterday…I faxed my request today, but I guess it might be far too late…so I really hope to participate in the Mass without the ticket:)
Thanks Ron! This blog is very helpful to me as I anticipate my trip at Easter time. I look forward to the Mass; I’m mentally prepared now for the chaos of St Peter’s filled to the brim! I, too, hope it does not rain.